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Are you anywhere near a large body of water where there are sailboats? If so, the stores that supply them will be a far, far better source for rope than Amazon.
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Final Escape, RaphtaliaTwoAnimals, therhydler and 5 others
Yes good point mate - dynamic wouldn't be ideal. Is the thickness a disadvantage? I thought that maybe thicker rope would good for partial as it would more effectively close off the artery, and in a drop would lessen the chance to decapitation. More than happy to be corrected on this.
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Lifeisatrap, RaphtaliaTwoAnimals, Jewels and 1 other person
Static climbing or arborists rope, of nylon braid (technically a kermantle), would be the best of what's easily obtainable. I'd probably use 10mm, or something close to it, to avoid it cutting into your neck. If that isn't a problem, I might go as small as 7mm. The same size rope from a supplier for sailboats would also work well (go with a nylon braid, ideally indended for use in halyards), and it is almost always available by the foot from boat supply stores, where climbing and arborist suppliers often only sell rope by the (expensive) fixed length.
Honestly, in such short lengths as people would be using for partial, whether it's static or dynamic doesn't make much difference. Stretch is a percentage of length --meaning a 1% elongation of a 100m rope would be 1m, but the same elongation of a 3m length hung over the top of a door would only be 3cm. Slumping 3cm lower is a negligible factor to compensate for.
The critical element of any rope choice is its working strength, and there are 12mm ropes that will break under my weight and 4mm ropes you couldn't break with four people hanging from them. Sometimes abbreviated "SWL" (Safe Working Load), you need this number to have any assurance it won't break. Obviously, SWL needs to be at least as much as you weigh. Don't try and split hairs by saying, "I can use a weaker rope because part of my weight will be on the floor." A knot --any knot-- or a hard turn in the rope --such as over the top of a door-- creates a place where stresses accumulate and effectively weakens the rope, so the bottom line is that you need a SWL at least as much as you weigh.
As a rigger on boats, I could give all sorts of ideal technical advice, with ropes of all sorts of fantastic, space-age materials that are high-strength and low friction, but the details would probably make everyone's eyes roll back in their heads.
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Jumper, justwannadie, dysfunctional and 6 others
Static climbing or arborists rope, of nylon braid (technically a kermantle), would be the best of what's easily obtainable. I'd probably use 10mm, or something close to it, to avoid it cutting into your neck. If that isn't a problem, I might go as small as 7mm. The same size rope from a supplier for sailboats would also work well (go with a nylon braid, ideally indended for use in halyards), and it is almost always available by the foot from boat supply stores, where climbing and arborist suppliers often only sell rope by the (expensive) fixed length.
Honestly, in such short lengths as people would be using for partial, whether it's static or dynamic doesn't make much difference. Stretch is a percentage of length --meaning a 1% elongation of a 100m rope would be 1m, but the same elongation of a 3m length hung over the top of a door would only be 3cm. Slumping 3cm lower is a negligible factor to compensate for.
The critical element of any rope choice is its working strength, and there are 12mm ropes that will break under my weight and 4mm ropes you couldn't break with four people hanging from them. Sometimes abbreviated "SWL" (Safe Working Load), you need this number to have any assurance it won't break. Obviously, SWL needs to be at least as much as you weigh. Don't try and split hairs by saying, "I can use a weaker rope because part of my weight will be on the floor." A knot --any knot-- or a hard turn in the rope --such as over the top of a door-- creates a place where stresses accumulate and effectively weakens the rope, so the bottom line is that you need a SWL at least as much as you weigh.
As a rigger on boats, I could give all sorts of ideal technical advice, with ropes of all sorts of fantastic, space-age materials that are high-strength and low friction, but the details would probably make everyone's eyes roll back in their heads.
Thankyou mate for sharing your knowledge. In a past life I did a bit of vertical rescue work and I have been a sail boat owner, but you have clarified everything succinctly. I think that if you have decided to end your life by hanging/suspension, and you are able to plan your exit, if you have the means don't mess around and risk the whole thing going horribly wrong by buying/obtaining crappy rope/cord/electrical lead etc. You may think your life is worthless, but it is worth doing things right and not ending up with a failed attempt that could leave you in a worse state.
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justwannadie, stargazer, Lifeisatrap and 1 other person
Hah! By bad luck you came across the one braid I wouldn't recommend. 8-plait is very stretchy --I use it for anchor rode on my boat because it works so well as a shock absorber. Sorry; I didn't think to caution against that one.
Hah! By bad luck you came across the one braid I wouldn't recommend. 8-plait is very stretchy --I use it for anchor rode on my boat because it works so well as a shock absorber. Sorry; I didn't think to caution against that one.
Thank you! Honestly don't have a clue about ropes and haven't come across much information on what type so I really appreciate it, I'll look around some more as well
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therhydler, Lifeisatrap, RaphtaliaTwoAnimals and 1 other person
Note how in the product info it gives you a table of break load. (Break load is 2x SWL.) That tells you this is rope worth looking at.
With that as a starting point, look at the products they offer and find one with a good break load/SWL that's in the size and price range you find acceptible. Note that most rope websites --including this one-- offer "reel-end bargains". You can often find good prices there.
Incidentally, that website was just the first one that popped up when I Googled <sailboat rope uk>.
We have similar experience. I did high and low-angle rescue, too. I've also taught rock climbing, worked rigging tallships, have sailed for 45 years... All those activities taught me --as it taught you-- it's worth doing things right.
Note how in the product info it gives you a table of break load. (Break load is 2x SWL.) That tells you this is rope worth looking at.
With that as a starting point, look at the products they offer and find one with a good break load/SWL that's in the size and price range you find acceptible. Note that most rope websites --including this one-- offer "reel-end bargains". You can often find good prices there.
Incidentally, that website was just the first one that popped up when I Googled <sailboat rope uk>.
We have similar experience. I did high and low-angle rescue, too. I've also taught rock climbing, worked rigging tallships, have sailed for 45 years... All those activities taught me --as it taught you-- it's worth doing things right.
Hi. It is bad rope Amira. Rough surface = bad sliding = bad tightening = painful and slow. And also uncomfortable. Better is a synthetic slippery rope.
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therhydler, Lifeisatrap, RaphtaliaTwoAnimals and 1 other person
Note how in the product info it gives you a table of break load. (Break load is 2x SWL.) That tells you this is rope worth looking at.
With that as a starting point, look at the products they offer and find one with a good break load/SWL that's in the size and price range you find acceptible. Note that most rope websites --including this one-- offer "reel-end bargains". You can often find good prices there.
Incidentally, that website was just the first one that popped up when I Googled <sailboat rope uk>.
We have similar experience. I did high and low-angle rescue, too. I've also taught rock climbing, worked rigging tallships, have sailed for 45 years... All those activities taught me --as it taught you-- it's worth doing things right.
That exact rope, in 10mm, has a break strength of 3690kg, aka SWL 1845kg. If you manage to break that with partial suspension, I want you to come back and give a detailed story!
(Yes, it ought to work just fine.)
@Jiva is right that you also need to be concerned about how well a noose will tighten without excessive resistance. IIRC, it was Jiva who posted a couple good pictures of a noose arrangement using what's called a "thimble". I can't recall the exact thread, but I hope he'll post those again here. Perhaps with a link to the thread, too, since we discussed how to construct such a noose, and you might find the information useful.
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Lifeisatrap, RaphtaliaTwoAnimals and Jewels
If you go to any home improvement store (Home Depot or Lowes in USA), they have them out in a roll where you can touch and feel. Some are quite thick, some feel scratchy, some are nylon, etc. If you like a plush feel, visit the sex store and get the bondage shibari ropes. If you don't care, manila rope from Home Depot works nicely.
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therhydler, Lifeisatrap, RaphtaliaTwoAnimals and 1 other person
That exact rope, in 10mm, has a break strength of 3690kg, aka SWL 1845kg. If you manage to break that with partial suspension, I want you to come back and give a detailed story!
(Yes, it ought to work just fine.)
@Jiva is right that you also need to be concerned about how well a noose will tighten without excessive resistance. IIRC, it was Jiva who posted a couple good pictures of a noose arrangement using what's called a "thimble". I can't recall the exact thread, but I hope he'll post those again here. Perhaps with a link to the thread, too, since we discussed how to construct such a noose, and you might find the information useful.
A one idea. If you think a more thick rope is better for you, you can try a belt. It has a similar effect. And a nylon belt is very slippery. You can try it, i think. In a hobby market it is relatively cheap.
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therhydler, Lifeisatrap, RaphtaliaTwoAnimals and 2 others
Thanks for the advice, not gonna lie I'm terrified of messing up and ending up with brain damage. Does using a thimble help the noose to tighten sufficiently, or is the simple noose here: https://www.realknots.com/knots/noose.htm safe enough?
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Lifeisatrap, RaphtaliaTwoAnimals, Jewels and 1 other person
Thanks for the advice, not gonna lie I'm terrified of messing up and ending up with brain damage. Does using a thimble help the noose to tighten sufficiently, or is the simple noose here: https://www.realknots.com/knots/noose.htm safe enough?
Partial hanging is sure never. The survival instinct is the main problem. Also you can be revealed. But both knots can kill. It isn't problem, i think. My choice is a simple loop through a metal ring. It is logically the most fast i think.
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therhydler, Lifeisatrap, RaphtaliaTwoAnimals and 3 others
Partial hanging is sure never. The survival instinct is the main problem. Also you can be revealed. But both knots can kill. It isn't problem, i think. My choice is a simple loop through a metal ring. It is logically the most fast i think.View attachment 4166
Yeah, the survival instinct was what prevented me last time. I'm planning on drinking before my next attempt to try and weaken it so I can carry it through to the end. I'm worried that the pressure on the carotid artery would alleviate while I'm unconscious, though
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therhydler, Lifeisatrap, RaphtaliaTwoAnimals and 2 others
Yeah, the survival instinct was what prevented me last time. I'm planning on drinking before my next attempt to try and weaken it so I can carry it through to the end. I'm worried that the pressure on the carotid artery would alleviate while I'm unconscious, though
Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Complete hanging is kinda scary though, I heard it tends to be more painful since there's so much pressure on your head/jaw. Not sure if there's anything strong and high enough for me to use for it either, I was going to use a doorknob or bedpost for partial though.
Reactions:
therhydler, Lifeisatrap, RaphtaliaTwoAnimals and 1 other person
Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Complete hanging is kinda scary though, I heard it tends to be more painful since there's so much pressure on your head/jaw. Not sure if there's anything strong and high enough for me to use for it either, I was going to use a doorknob or bedpost for partial though.
Static climbing or arborists rope, of nylon braid (technically a kermantle), would be the best of what's easily obtainable. I'd probably use 10mm, or something close to it, to avoid it cutting into your neck. If that isn't a problem, I might go as small as 7mm. The same size rope from a supplier for sailboats would also work well (go with a nylon braid, ideally indended for use in halyards), and it is almost always available by the foot from boat supply stores, where climbing and arborist suppliers often only sell rope by the (expensive) fixed length.
Honestly, in such short lengths as people would be using for partial, whether it's static or dynamic doesn't make much difference. Stretch is a percentage of length --meaning a 1% elongation of a 100m rope would be 1m, but the same elongation of a 3m length hung over the top of a door would only be 3cm. Slumping 3cm lower is a negligible factor to compensate for.
The critical element of any rope choice is its working strength, and there are 12mm ropes that will break under my weight and 4mm ropes you couldn't break with four people hanging from them. Sometimes abbreviated "SWL" (Safe Working Load), you need this number to have any assurance it won't break. Obviously, SWL needs to be at least as much as you weigh. Don't try and split hairs by saying, "I can use a weaker rope because part of my weight will be on the floor." A knot --any knot-- or a hard turn in the rope --such as over the top of a door-- creates a place where stresses accumulate and effectively weakens the rope, so the bottom line is that you need a SWL at least as much as you weigh.
As a rigger on boats, I could give all sorts of ideal technical advice, with ropes of all sorts of fantastic, space-age materials that are high-strength and low friction, but the details would probably make everyone's eyes roll back in their heads.
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