Method Carbon monoxide megathread

[Joannf]

To clarify some points brought up recently, as others have pointed out, 10000ppm is equivalent to 1% volume in the air. This is extremely lethal and knocks you out in seconds, using charcoal we struggle to push 10000ppm depending on the they execution. Therefore no need to worry about explosions, nobody has ever accidentally blew themselves up using this method.

Second, if you're going to research anthracite coal then I'd suggest doing tests before recommending it to others. Some charcoals have less carbon but going by weight you can make a safe estimate of how much charcoal you need for your space. 1-2kg is already plenty for a small tent but rooms and vehicles may need more. The worry with anthracite coal is that it may burn differently in some ways, because it is mineral rather than a processed briquette it may behave in unexpected ways such as burning hotter or colder, faster or slower than other charcoal, and most importantly is it likely to smoulder as reliably as a barbecuing charcoal?

I have tested a chimney burner and others have had great success with then, stuff the underneath with paper and even if you don't see much flame rather than smoke, leave it for a while and they'll be golden. I'll say that I bought a proper weber one to get the version with great ventilation. I think the chimney burner is most desirable because very little extras are needed and you can get a clean smoulder with no impure or gasoline type fuels.


Wikipedia is your friend, but yes personally I believe that many people could perform this method even without sedatives, carbon monoxide is known as the invisible or silent killer because there is usually no warning before you pass out. BTW this is CO, CO2 is very different.

 

[Joannf]

To clarify some points brought up recently, as others have pointed out, 10000ppm is equivalent to 1% volume in the air. This is extremely lethal and knocks you out in seconds, using charcoal we struggle to push 10000ppm depending on the they execution. Therefore no need to worry about explosions, nobody has ever accidentally blew themselves up using this method.

Second, if you're going to research anthracite coal then I'd suggest doing tests before recommending it to others. Some charcoals have less carbon but going by weight you can make a safe estimate of how much charcoal you need for your space. 1-2kg is already plenty for a small tent but rooms and vehicles may need more. The worry with anthracite coal is that it may burn differently in some ways, because it is mineral rather than a processed briquette it may behave in unexpected ways such as burning hotter or colder, faster or slower than other charcoal, and most importantly is it likely to smoulder as reliably as a barbecuing charcoal?

I have tested a chimney burner and others have had great success with then, stuff the underneath with paper and even if you don't see much flame rather than smoke, leave it for a while and they'll be golden. I'll say that I bought a proper weber one to get the version with great ventilation. I think the chimney burner is most desirable because very little extras are needed and you can get a clean smoulder with no impure or gasoline type fuels.


Wikipedia is your friend, but yes personally I believe that many people could perform this method even without sedatives, carbon monoxide is known as the invisible or silent killer because there is usually no warning before you pass out. BTW this is CO, CO2 is very different.

You may be talking to me about "recommending anthracite coal" though I didn't recommend it - I just pointed it out because it has a higher concentration of carbon than charcoal, and definitely higher than charcoal bricks. I also posted information that explains how c-bricks are made : some are made by mixing anthracite coal with sawdust. This is important information for folks who worry about their indeed unreliable carbon content, is it not ? Anthracite bricks are usually way larger and heavier than the charcoal variety, also of even denser consistency than charcoal bricks... I would say that it would probably be a good idea to saw them into half a dozen bricklets (or buy anthracite coals in the first place) and then treat them like charcoal bricks, to have top finestkind lethal quality - unfortunately I don't get the stuff here in Portugal, I would have tested them if I could. I know anthracite bricks from our fireplace in Germany, and they do behave a lot like charcoal bricks, relatively hard to ignite (high temp), they burn longishly, like an oak log, but very likely about the same time as charcoal bricks when sawed into pieces. All in all I would say that for people up north who aren't afraid to go to heaven with dirty hands, customized anthracite bricklets would be the preferable choice, but I don't insist on having the procedure patented ;)
To point this out once again, charcoal bricks are mixes between anthracite coal and sawdust or other materials, it seems they will use anthracite to make up for the lack in carbon content of whatever else flammables they may decide to mix in. There is no law that demands them to be chemical-free, so some ingredients may even be poisonous... sorry if I'm unable to take dying seriously - I just want this to work well, in a positive spirit.

 

[sini]

Here it's advertised that hard coal lasts longer. The other one made of wood produces heat more.

I didn't know before checking that hard coal is sold here. Also the big pieces that equals one kilo of other coals.

 

[weedoge]

Well guess what. Last night it was pouring down rain in the forest, so I saved my charcoal and grill for another day, went home and made up with my wife. Another day and today is a little bit better mood wise.

Glad to hear you're not feeling awful at least. Not sure where you're based but it was stormy here the past few days too.

 

[weedoge]

You may be talking to me about "recommending anthracite coal" though I didn't recommend it - I just pointed it out because it has a higher concentration of carbon than charcoal, and definitely higher than charcoal bricks. I also posted information that explains how c-bricks are made : some are made by mixing anthracite coal with sawdust. This is important information for folks who worry about their indeed unreliable carbon content, is it not ? Anthracite bricks are usually way larger and heavier than the charcoal variety, also of even denser consistency than charcoal bricks... I would say that it would probably be a good idea to saw them into half a dozen bricklets (or buy anthracite coals in the first place) and then treat them like charcoal bricks, to have top finestkind lethal quality - unfortunately I don't get the stuff here in Portugal, I would have tested them if I could. I know anthracite bricks from our fireplace in Germany, and they do behave a lot like charcoal bricks, relatively hard to ignite (high temp), they burn longishly, like an oak log, but very likely about the same time as charcoal bricks when sawed into pieces. All in all I would say that for people up north who aren't afraid to go to heaven with dirty hands, customized anthracite bricklets would be the preferable choice, but I don't insist on having the procedure patented ;)
To point this out once again, charcoal bricks are mixes between anthracite coal and sawdust or other materials, it seems they will use anthracite to make up for the lack in carbon content of whatever else flammables they may decide to mix in. There is no law that demands them to be chemical-free, so some ingredients may even be poisonous... sorry if I'm unable to take dying seriously - I just want this to work well, in a positive spirit.

If you know how they behave that's great, I didn't intend to be passive aggressive or anything just sometimes it's hard to find posts to click the quote button, that's all. Good luck

 

[weedoge]

I could only tell about how fast a person dies if you had recorded the amount of CO with meter in the car before.

Below is one estimation.
I have seen many saying death comes in lower CO levels in about 3-4 hours in other studies. It depends on persons weight and health also.

https://www.abe.iastate.edu/extension-and-outreach/carbon-monoxide-concentrations-table-aen-172/

CO levels can be gotten above 10000ppm easily with generator. But CO builds up so for example when there is CO 400-800ppm death comes in 3-5h (read the studies of it available in Internet since estimations vary) and when there is 10000ppm (=1%) CO death comes in few minutes. The result is same in both. Other one just takes longer.

I don't know whether anyone have tested here with meter how much CO they have gotten with coals in car or in space that is same size than car.

You should check the messages before in this thread.

This is why I think the sedatives + tent + coal method is very valid if done with a bit of common sense. Fall asleep with smouldering coals in a small sealed area is really as simple as it gets.

 

[cappuccinogirl]

Are the acids easy to obtain in Australia? Or am I just gonna have to charcoal grill Mmm?

Not sure. I just got them on ebay in UK. Sulphuric acid was a drain cleaners.

 

[ChickenAndPotatoes]

A LOOOONNG list of side effects of carbon monoxide.

Monoxide.

* Headaches
* Dizziness
* Weakness
* Nausea
* Trouble thinking
* Shortness of breath
* Visual problems
* Loss of consciousness
* Increased temperature
* Milder hypertension
* Diarrhea
* Cherry-red skin (uncommon)
* Bullous lesions
* Sweat-gland necrosis
* Rhabdomyolysis
* Renal failure from myoglobinuria
* Pulmonary problems
* Reduced exercise tolerance for patients with chronic obstructive lung disease
* Low levels have deleterious effects on cell structure in terminal airways
* Decrease in mid- and end- expiratory flow rates
Noncardiogenic pulmonary edema
* Cardia performance affected
* Lack of compensatory coronary dilation in presence of CO
* Earlier onset of exercise-induced angina in coronary atherosclerosis
* Ischemic ST-segment depression
* Aggravation of angina pectoris
* Intermittent claudication occurs earlier
* Causes polycytermia
* Level of intraerythrocytic 2,3-diphophoglycerate decreases
* Impaired oxygen transport capability
* Cardiac arrhythmia (main cause of CO poisoning)
* Threshold for ventricular fibrillation is reduced
* Disability or death from effects on the central nervous system
* Lethal cerebral edema
* Cell death from hypoxia and interference with cellular respiration
Symmetric, destructive frontal and posterior parietal leukoencephalopathy
* Degenerative changes in the basal ganglia, especially the globus pallidus
* Parenacentral scotomas
* homonymous hemianopia
* Temporary of permanent blindness
* Flame-shaped superficial retinal hemorrhages
* Vestibular dysfunction
* Hearing loss
* Delayed central nervous systems disorders:
Affective incontinence, including:
Increased irritability
Impulsiveness
Mood changes
Moodiness
Violence
Verbal aggressiveness
Personality changes
Cognitive abnormalities
Neurological abnormalities
* Memory impairment
* 3-yr follow-up of coma found 11% still suffered neuropsychiatric disturbances
* Urinary or fecal incontinence, or both
* Gait disturbances
* Mutism
* Tremor
* Speech disturbances
* Epilepsy
* Abdominal cramps
* Mimics flu-like viral illness
* Paraesthesiae
* Parkinsonism
* Akinetic mutism
* Acidosis of cerebrospinal fluid
* Increase in left ventricular ejection time
* Symptoms are often vague
* Physical examination may be unremarkable
Measurement of carboxyhemoglobin may not correlate well with symptoms

https://www.abe.iastate.edu/extension-and-outreach/two-conditions-for-a-carbon-monoxide-hazard/

 

[weedoge]

A LOOOONNG list of side effects of carbon monoxide.

Monoxide.

* Headaches
* Dizziness
* Weakness
* Nausea
* Trouble thinking
* Shortness of breath
* Visual problems
* Loss of consciousness
* Increased temperature
* Milder hypertension
* Diarrhea
* Cherry-red skin (uncommon)
* Bullous lesions
* Sweat-gland necrosis
* Rhabdomyolysis
* Renal failure from myoglobinuria
* Pulmonary problems
* Reduced exercise tolerance for patients with chronic obstructive lung disease
* Low levels have deleterious effects on cell structure in terminal airways
* Decrease in mid- and end- expiratory flow rates
Noncardiogenic pulmonary edema
* Cardia performance affected
* Lack of compensatory coronary dilation in presence of CO
* Earlier onset of exercise-induced angina in coronary atherosclerosis
* Ischemic ST-segment depression
* Aggravation of angina pectoris
* Intermittent claudication occurs earlier
* Causes polycytermia
* Level of intraerythrocytic 2,3-diphophoglycerate decreases
* Impaired oxygen transport capability
* Cardiac arrhythmia (main cause of CO poisoning)
* Threshold for ventricular fibrillation is reduced
* Disability or death from effects on the central nervous system
* Lethal cerebral edema
* Cell death from hypoxia and interference with cellular respiration
Symmetric, destructive frontal and posterior parietal leukoencephalopathy
* Degenerative changes in the basal ganglia, especially the globus pallidus
* Parenacentral scotomas
* homonymous hemianopia
* Temporary of permanent blindness
* Flame-shaped superficial retinal hemorrhages
* Vestibular dysfunction
* Hearing loss
* Delayed central nervous systems disorders:
Affective incontinence, including:
Increased irritability
Impulsiveness
Mood changes
Moodiness
Violence
Verbal aggressiveness
Personality changes
Cognitive abnormalities
Neurological abnormalities
* Memory impairment
* 3-yr follow-up of coma found 11% still suffered neuropsychiatric disturbances
* Urinary or fecal incontinence, or both
* Gait disturbances
* Mutism
* Tremor
* Speech disturbances
* Epilepsy
* Abdominal cramps
* Mimics flu-like viral illness
* Paraesthesiae
* Parkinsonism
* Akinetic mutism
* Acidosis of cerebrospinal fluid
* Increase in left ventricular ejection time
* Symptoms are often vague
* Physical examination may be unremarkable
Measurement of carboxyhemoglobin may not correlate well with symptoms

https://www.abe.iastate.edu/extension-and-outreach/two-conditions-for-a-carbon-monoxide-hazard/

And yet it's still a decent method.

 

[Arak]

Not sure. I just got them on ebay in UK. Sulphuric acid was a drain cleaners.

pksafetyuk.com appears to offer that product and sell not only to the UK, but I wonder if there are any restrictions ? (93 % ... there are European guidelines if I'm not mistaken. i wonder if thet as question, especially when certain quantities ...) I really did not see it on ebay.co.uk, if you know of a place please post/send me a PM ?

 

[jfcmayte]

Ok so someone point out if anything is wrong.

Make sure to seal any holes or vents including the front window vent, maybe windows?

Light up the charcoal briquettes in the chimney starter for an hour or so.

when there is no smoke left and they're left looking gray, Pour the briquettes into a tray or steel bucket

Place on the passenger floor of car on top of bricks that are inside a tray, with the tray filled up a bit with water

Close door and wait for 20 mins for CO to build up

Enter car, lock doors, and sleep

 

[jfcmayte]

Also how would you determine if the charcoal is ready to transfer in the dark at night?

 

[ThereIsNoHope]

Is the chimney starter necessary to do the method inside a car?And why?

 

[weedoge]

Is the chimney starter necessary to do the method inside a car?And why?

The chimney starter just makes it easier to get a perfect even burn on the coals before taking them in whatever area you've chosen. I think familiarity with burning charcoal could be a big factor in success and think whoever came up with the idea of using a chimney burner is onto a good idea tbh.

 

[Arak]

Trying to narrow down things for viable options.

Limited knowledge of chemistry. Not going to use a 'tent'. Maybe small room or something else.
I've seen that formic acid plus sulphuric acid combo. But I wouldn't want to experiment. Charcoal ? Seems unreliable, too much 'instinct' and it could get out of control as in: I don't want to kill the neighbours.

Any suggestions ?

 

[weedoge]

Trying to narrow down things for viable options.

Limited knowledge of chemistry. Not going to use a 'tent'. Maybe small room or something else.
I've seen that formic acid plus sulphuric acid combo. But I wouldn't want to experiment. Charcoal ? Seems unreliable, too much 'instinct' and it could get out of control as in: I don't want to kill the neighbours.

Any suggestions ?

Originally I thought I wouldn't use a tent because it was a lot of effort and prep, but I realised it wasn't too difficult of an option for me and at that way there's no way I'm putting anyone else in danger. That's a big worry of mine and I couldn't do it inside in any kinda of terraced building or apartment. Maybe a room in an airbnb house or something at a stretch if you can afford it, but then I doubt you'd be looking at charcoal burning.

 

[Joannf]

Just back from jogging, I had an idea about the CO-meter problem (you can buy one that measures 999 ppm at 20 bucks but one that goes above that only at 300+) - place a small tupperware container in the room that is to be CO-d, let the charcoals or acid do their work, then hold your breath, walk in, close the container, take it out (you can have an airlock, like two plastic foils in front of the door, suspended from the ceiling - so not much CO concentration flows out while you're at it - or if you're using a tent, just slide in your hands...), then place the small container inside one with 10 times the volume and a cheap CO meter inside. Open the small container, close the larger one. This is not a precise method, but I love sensible improvisations - and if you really have achieved overkill, you'll know ;))

 

[weedoge]

Just back from jogging, I had an idea about the CO-meter problem (you can buy one that measures 999 ppm at 20 bucks but one that goes above that only at 300+) - place a small tupperware container in the room that is to be CO-d, let the charcoals or acid do their work, then hold your breath, walk in, close the container, take it out (you can have an airlock, like two plastic foils in front of the door, suspended from the ceiling - so not much CO concentration flows out while you're at it - or if you're using a tent, just slide in your hands...), then place the small container inside one with 10 times the volume and a cheap CO meter inside. Open the small container, close the larger one. This is not a precise method, but I love sensible improvisations - and if you really have achieved overkill, you'll know ;))

This post was a little confusing, can you maybe explain a bit more how this would help? Thanks

 

[Joannf]

Oh I almost forgot, I also improvised a "chimney starter" - I got one from an Aldi in summer but it's the sort you can only use about 3 kilos of bricks in... you can see these standard ones use in many youtube videos. So I took an old metal bucket that takes 20 liters, removed the bottom and added some steel sheeting (the sort you get cheap at the bricomarkets), just rolled it up inside because the bucket is thin-walled and would likely not withstand the heat for long. I added some wiring on the outside so the thing can be easily lifted and now I have a chimney starter that will take at least 10 kilos of bricks. No more reason not to just use this thing instead of a grill, carry it inside (probably too large for small tents), and it's so cheap and thimple that you can build two or three of them, light them up outside at the same time and when done carry them inside... to achieve bastante overkill ;))

 

[Joannf]

This post was a little confusing, can you maybe explain a bit more how this would help? Thanks

Well I was thinking that to make a meter that stops measuring at 1000 ppm rather than the desired 10000, useful, you have to dilute the concentration of your kill chamber by factor ten, and I'm trying to do that by diluting a sample of the room concentration ten times by mixing it into the air of the bigger container. There will be losses, but at least it's a method. It could be better achieved by pumping a certain volume of kill-chamber gas into the big container, but that' would be too complicated for most ;)

 

[nohoper]

Oh I almost forgot, I also improvised a "chimney starter" - I got one from an Aldi in summer but it's the sort you can only use about 3 kilos of bricks in... you can see these standard ones use in many youtube videos. So I took an old metal bucket that takes 20 liters, removed the bottom and added some steel sheeting (the sort you get cheap at the bricomarkets), just rolled it up inside because the bucket is thin-walled and would likely not withstand the heat for long. I added some wiring on the outside so the thing can be easily lifted and now I have a chimney starter that will take at least 10 kilos of bricks. No more reason not to just use this thing instead of a grill, carry it inside (probably too large for small tents), and it's so cheap and thimple that you can build two or three of them, light them up outside at the same time and when done carry them inside... to achieve bastante overkill ;))

you have converted a chimney starter to take 10KG of bricks and plan on using 3 of them!!, as 1KG is plenty enough in a small car i think 30KG could knock out a small village.....thats not to mention the heat given off by 30KG of charcoal

 

[Stryxmain]

Just back from jogging, I had an idea about the CO-meter problem (you can buy one that measures 999 ppm at 20 bucks but one that goes above that only at 300+) - place a small tupperware container in the room that is to be CO-d, let the charcoals or acid do their work, then hold your breath, walk in, close the container, take it out (you can have an airlock, like two plastic foils in front of the door, suspended from the ceiling - so not much CO concentration flows out while you're at it - or if you're using a tent, just slide in your hands...), then place the small container inside one with 10 times the volume and a cheap CO meter inside. Open the small container, close the larger one. This is not a precise method, but I love sensible improvisations - and if you really have achieved overkill, you'll know ;))

Can you link CO meters that can measure >10 000ppm

 

[Joannf]

you have converted a chimney starter to take 10KG of bricks and plan on using 3 of them!!, as 1KG is plenty enough in a small car i think 30KG could knock out a small village.....thats not to mention the heat given off by 30KG of charcoal

I'm testing... I don't want to use a car... I would prefer using a room with abt. 40 cubic meters of air, not a big but a comfortable one. Recent assumptions here stated that it might be best to use 1 kg of charcoal/bricks per cubic meter, aminotrite ? That may be exaggerated, but I'm also one for being "on the safe side"... So I'm trying to make sure of my overkill capacity ;)
My tests with chimney starters are on the whole discouraging, when the top bricks stop burning, the lowest ones are already destroyed if you use more than 2 kgs in an average-sized starter... so I would (definitely for cars) rather recommend the use of multiple little mobile grills, the sort you can buy in supermarkets - they hold a bit less than 1 kg each and you could use up to four on your back seat.
It's always best to lay out the bricks horizontally in one layer (starters have 5 or more), and ignite them all at once from below and equally, for about 10 to 20 minutes... this is technically challenging but I devised a method. For most people the problem there will be the space needed, so they resort to the chimney starters... and sometimes fail as these are designed to grill meat.
The heat is not a problem in winter rooms, but at all seasons in cars (mind the plastic ceiling) ;)

 

[Joannf]

Can you link CO meters that can measure >10 000ppm

I googled that and found a few... they were all in the cost range I mentioned, or above.

 

[Arak]

COGen ... where can one buy or get those ? As mentioned in the PPEh.

 

[Joannf]

COGen ... where can one buy or get those ? As mentioned in the PPEh.

I dont think you can actually buy one, so make one

 

[Joannf]

I have here collected some basic info that should answer most questions, as a resume... much is copied from the 8chan thread on charcoal/CO - we had been musing that to be one the safe side, you should be using 1 kg of coal per cubic meter of air, though that is exaggerated - you see, CO will bind to the hemoglobin of your blood 300 times better than O(xygen), so... try to follow this reasoning or correct us if we're wrong :

A cubic meter of air weighs ~1.2 kg. One kg of coal will ultimately produce ~3x its weight in in carbon dioxide (this is possible because of the the oxygen.) In practice with an incomplete burning of coal it is lower obviously. Coal is mostly carbon, once the carbon is gone.. where has it gone? …into the air.
Typically indoors the amount of oxygen in the air is 10-20% of volume or weight.
We can see in 10 cubic meters of air there is approx 1.2 x ~.15 x 10 kg oxygen. = 1.8 kg oxygen / 2 (one carbon two oxygen) = 2.7 kg carbon dioxide. / 3 = .9 kg coal / carbon
So one kilo of coal would not finish burning in a 10 cubic meter area before it had used up all available oxygen.

However when oxygen levels are low instead of producing co2 coal will begin to produce co. We can establish you only need 1% (see above, 300 times) of the air to be CO to have an instant death. This is not enough volume to impact our calculations.
We can say if there is enough coal to turn all of the oxygen into CO2, then we will have excess CO production. But in reality the proportion of oxygen burned will never reach 100%, the oxygen will not be completely consumed only about ~70%, so we already have a pretty significant margin of error (in fact, we'll be burning the coal mostly outside and only bring the coals inside after the CO2 production has already stopped, but let this not stop the line of reasoning here).

I can say for 10 cubic meters one kilogram of coal, provided it is good coal, will be plenty (about bathroom size). That may be a good rule of thumb to follow, however also consider if there is air leaking from your area and fresh oxygen entering this could either increase the volume you need based in the rate of airflow. As long as the flow of air is less than a 1-3 cubic meters an hour there should be no problem.
That being said if you have the means, there will not be a harm in using excess coal. So if you can use more without significant hazards, than you may want too.

So ! I have 40 cubic meters.
► After all the testing I did I will use one flat grill with about 4-5 kgs, and the fireplace, as flat, also with 4-5 kgs. I will not use a chimney starter as these things destroy about a third of the coals, they take half an hour to ignite all the coals... that's too long. You see, the problem with lighting a fire is that different materials ignite at different temperatures. You can start a fire with paper, have that ignite a light sort of dry wood, which will burn longer than paper and at a higher temperature, to eventually ignite pine wood, which even later ignites oaks wood... or charcoal. This being a lengthy and messy process, I can understand that many people prefer to use just paper in a chimney starter... well, try it before you go and see if it works for you, if it will get all your 3 kgs of coals equally grey, non-burning, just glowing, CO producing, but still in an unspent state so you have 30 minutes to enjoy them inside. I don't think that's going to happen... you have stapled 40 briquettes or so 5 high, and are firing them from below, so the lower ones will be burning out way before the top ones even start to get warm. By the time the top ones stop burning, the lowest will start turning into ash. Is this not reasonable ? What you want is having them all laid out flat beside each other, and then fire them all at the same time, and you need your fire to burn hot enough for at least 15 minutes, because charcoal is a bitch to ignite (which is why everybody tells you to use a chimney starter).

► I lay out the briqs on a metal grid wired together from what you find in the house (stove) and what they sell at the markets, improvised stuff, you can create one from parts of chickenwire garden fences if need be. This to have them about 2 inches from the floor of the grill or fireplace or stove, where I collect the rocket fuel. This rocket fuel is also laid out flatly, it's about half an inch of wood pellets lavishly sprinkled with vegetable oil and intermixed with an ample amount of paraffin fire starters. Directly before you go, spray all of this with alcohol, then add the grid with the coals on top, then fire it from four sides but be prepared to jump out of the way ;) It won't hurt to oil the coals before placing them on the grid, it's all about assuring that they will all start burning and later glowing at the same time, and the big deal is making them ignite fast - different briqs have different ingredients, so never use a mix of different brands... understood ?
They get grey and stop smoking, bring them inside. Time to die ;)

► If you're using a car or tent, you might be best served with those disposable aluminum foil barbecues you can buy at 3 bucks at the markets (seems they found people will pay 5 times that in the US by now, see below), just use several of them as they contain less than one kg of briqs. Tally-ho ! https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Ways...ZYE9Z5SX8V8&psc=1&refRID=B3Q0BKQNAZYE9Z5SX8V8

► I also have this sulfuric/formic acid setup in the bathroom with a hose leading into my "final bedroom," the mix will be inside a metal jerry can inside the plastic bath tub, and I'll finish the filter that should eliminate all the acid fumes, tomorrow - it was a job that lasted a few days, almost done now - the latter is a very important part that you shouldn't underestimate when using this method, as it is usually being ignored in what you read on the web. Ask me if you're going to use this method - I will mix this stuff together when my coals have started burning... It's hard to time this perfectly, a bit like directing an orchestra... but remember, we need to embrace it all as a chance.

► I just went back to the "where to get a CO meter that measures +10000ppm" conundrum, well you can easily get 999ppm meters at amazon - 1000ppm will not do you a lot of harm, so we can experiment with that, correct ? So what we do, we burn 10% of the briqs we will use for the end game, and we use the 999ppm, 20 Eurodollar meter... if that produces enough CO to bring the cheap CO meter up to 999, beep-beep, bingo. If not, you will still have a good measure you can extrapolate. Is this plausible ? How hard can it be... after the test, ventilate - get some fresh air into your gas chamber and prepare for the real show, this time with confidence.

In general - I'm in no hurry, this will happen eventually but not necessarily tomorrow. I'm a happy person but I have some progressing health concerns and I just want to be ultimately prepared and in charge to the very end, so there will be the CZ Nine beside the bed as well. I may be available a few more months, or I might not...
Having this planned out perfectly and readily usable makes me feel good and free, in the sense of ;))

 

[Arak]

I dont think you can actually buy one, so make one

Anyone here on the Exit forums ? I believed those were available.

 

[Joannf]

Well I was thinking that to make a meter that stops measuring at 1000 ppm rather than the desired 10000, useful, you have to dilute the concentration of your kill chamber by factor ten, and I'm trying to do that by diluting a sample of the room concentration ten times by mixing it into the air of the bigger container. There will be losses, but at least it's a method. It could be better achieved by pumping a certain volume of kill-chamber gas into the big container, but that' would be too complicated for most ;)

I can see this is not plausible so far... so I will propose a different method. You want 10000 ppm, right ? 1000 will not do you a lot of harm,so we can experiment with that, correct ? So what we do, we burn 10% of the briqs we will use for the end game, and we use the 999 20 Eurodollar meter... if that produces enough CO to bring the cheap CO meter up to 999, bingo. If not, you will still have a good measure you can extrapolate.

 

[stargazer]

It's either this or hanging, but I'm still waiting on someone and a few things. Sigh. Both seem so peaceful as methods.