D
distredsul
New Member
- Aug 25, 2025
- 4
To Use:
If I found all this on the internet, I'm sure you can, but maybe these will address a few of the questions I've encountered here.
Start by sitting upright in a chair. My understanding is that you should not be lying down, and that you want to be confident you won't fall over when you black out, as any final twitching with your head rumpling the bag against whatever you are lying on might displace the bag enough to allow the inert gas to escape.
I have heard fears of convulsions with this method, but I have also heard —more plausibly— that accounts of convulsions are more accurately associated with sedated-suffocation (a predecessor to this inert gas technique) rather than to inert gas asphyxiation. However, a few final twitches are possible as the electrical activity in the brain fades, and it would be tragic to have the attempt ruined by not taking the simple precaution of being sitting up and stable.
To feel confident that any post-mortem twitching will not knock the cylinder over and jerk the tube out of the exit bag, secure the cylinder to the leg of your chair. I use a piece of webbing; duct tape or a length of cord would work.
If you wear glasses, as I do, remove them. They will be a hindrance when you need to pull the gas-filled bag down over your face, and will allow space for air to remain in the bag.
To pre-fit the drawcord, pull the bag down over your head and face. Tighten the elastic drawcord around your neck so that it's snug, but not cinched tight. You should be able to fit your fingers under it.
Lift the bag up off your face so that the drawcord is now around your temples and just above your eyebrows, below your ears and around the back of your neck, like a shower cap. After adjusting the drawcord to your neck, it will feel tight around your head; this is good.
Scrunch ALL the air out of the bag. The more air you can remove, the faster the inert gas will take effect. If you ignore this step, your attempt will likely fail.
At this point the end of the hose should be inside the bag. I have long hair, so I secure the end of the hose at the back of my head with a hair elastic. Others have taped the end of the hose securely to the inside of the bag with more micropore tape.
If you have long hair, like I do, make sure it is bundled up inside the exit bag, not sticking out under the drawcord.
With the regulator closed, open the valve of the cylinder. There will be a sharp hiss as the regulator fills.
Open the regulator and adjust the flow of gas to 15Lpm. The gas flowing through the tube was surprisingly loud to me, and a bit distracting. Someone here kindly recommended earplugs, which I may do on my next attempt. Or I may listen to music; I doubt earbud wires will displace the drawcord.
The bag will gradually inflate above your head. It will take a minute or two to reach full inflation.
As the bag is inflating, take deep breaths, exhaling fully, to purge as much CO2 as possible from the depths of your lungs.
When the bag is inflated and you're ready, exhale as completely as possible and hold your lungs empty. Slide the bag down over your face and settle the elastic comfortably around your neck. Finally, inhale as deeply as possibe; breathe slowly
Is it really necessary to have a 600-liter tank? Tanks with that capacity are usually too largeExit Bag and Inert Gas Basics —A very, very long post, I know, but I feel like I've fielded a lot of questions about this, so I figured I'd spell out everything I know. Others on the forum should please add to this thread whatever reliable technical information they feel is appropriate for someone attempting this method to have.
The idea behind using an exit bag with inert gas is to create an atmosphere around your head that is both free of life-sustaining O2 and can carry away the exhaled CO2 that would activate your hypercapnic alarm.
The Gas:
You will need to keep the inert gas flowing at 15 liters per minute (Lpm) for 40 minutes to be confident of ending your life —in other words, you'll need a minimum of 600 liters of inert gas. In the past this would have been helium (He), but due to the uncertain availability of genuinely pure He, the best current options are nitrogen (N2) and argon (Ar). Both are reliably available in pure form (no air contamination) from stores that supply welders. N2 is also available from some brewery supply houses, but the purity of the gas should be confirmed to your satisfaction. Both N2 and Ar should work to ctb and are similar enough in their properties to be treated identically for use with an exit bag.
Pressurized gas cylinder sizes are not standardized across the industry, nor internationally, and it can be difficult, if not impossible, to tell how much gas they contain from a photograph on a website.
In the US, a 20 cubic foot (cf) cylinder is the smallest you should use for ctb; a 40cf will allow some margin for flinching, practicing, etc. "A 20cf" and "a 40cf", or "a 20" and "a 40" is nomenclature US welding supply houses will recognize, so asking for either should get you the desired product. A 20cf cylinder is quite small for industrial use; I've had clerks tell me, "well, we have a 40, but we'll need to special order a 20." It's up to you what you do in that situation. Personally, I have a 40cf cylinder. It has allowed me to flinch and abort my attempt three times now, and I don't need to worry about refilling it. I bought my N2 at AirGas, a national company here in the US. They do not demand any sort of professional certification for purchasing inert gas, and no more than the usual forms of ID depending on payment method.
I know nothing of gas cylinders outside the US, so if you are using other than US-typical cylinders, you'll need to call and ask to make sure whatever tank you're contemplating holds 600L of compressed gas. Hopefully knowledgeable forum members will add cylinder sizing information to this knowledge base.
Cover story: N2 and Ar are both used for welding. N2 is used in beer brewing. In my day job, I use both N2 and Ar to flood partial cans of expensive paint, to displace the O2 in the cans and prevent the paint from skinning over and going bad. It's a cost saving measure. The clerks I've bought gas from have never heard of that trick, which has meant they don't know enough to interrogate me on my motives or to try and quiz me on my welding knowledge. They have merely said, "huh! That's a new one!"
The store clerk may ask how you're carrying the pressurized cylinder "back to your shop," since pressurized cylinders can be very hazardous to transport (the valve is vulnerable to damage in an accident). I haven't had any trouble when I have told the clerk, "in the back footwell of my car, and very carefully padded!" What they really want to know is that you are aware that a pressurized cylinder is a missile waiting to explode if anything damages it, and that you know enough to not let that happen.
Thank you@The_Sadness_of_Life
Hi friend. You've posted your post twice here (and other places), I'm not sure if that helps or rather clouds up the information in the forum. :)
This thread (while super mega helpful especially at the beginning) it seems has gone a bit "cold" unfortunately.
I'm sorry I'm very low energy (as I presume many of us are here due to our circumstances) to read your entire post in detail. It might be easier to post specific questions you may have regarding your setup or connections? What are you most unsure about?
@The_Sadness_of_Life
Hi friend. You've posted your post twice here (and other places), I'm not sure if that helps or rather clouds up the information in the forum. :)
This thread (while super mega helpful especially at the beginning) it seems has gone a bit "cold" unfortunately.
I'm sorry I'm very low energy (as I presume many of us are here due to our circumstances) to read your entire post in detail. It might be easier to post specific questions you may have regarding your setup or connections? What are you most unsure about?
I got my nitrogen from a welding store. Don't know where you are but not sure if eBay can be trusted. BUT either way simple way to find out is to test it. Get an oxygen detector and fill up a small bag with it in it. It should go to <0.5% fairly quickly. Best to also test the same with CO2 though I didn't.Thank youfor your reply. I seen this nitrogen in eBay and I wanna make sure it's the right one the right size and the right nitrogen.
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Nitrogen Gas, Full, 40 Cu. Ft. CGA580 Connection Nitrogen Tank/Gas, 100% PURE! | eBay
Used as a purging gas to prevent internal flacking during welding/brazing or to pressurize and leak test a sealed system. Nitrogen Gas, 100% PURE! 40 cubic feet of Nitrogen Gas. (1) Steel Heavy Duty 40 cu Tank.www.ebay.com
Thank you friend for giving a time reply for me.I got my nitrogen from a welding store. Don't know where you are but not sure if eBay can be trusted. BUT either way simple way to find out is to test it. Get an oxygen detector and fill up a small bag with it in it. It should go to <0.5% fairly quickly. Best to also test the same with CO2 though I didn't.
Just clicked the link the item looks good!
Steel tank will be a bit heavy so plan for that for moving around in case you're weak.
And yes 40 cubic feet should be good. IIRC it's about 1400 liters and 600 is minimum to ctb. So with 40 you have twice the amount which gives you room to test and practice! Just make sure you have a correct regulator and flowmeter to set the rate to 15-25LPM (unsure of exact best rate still trying to decide for myself).
Any Nitrogen is 'right'--By Law, Nitrogen Tanks must contain at least 99.0% NitrogenThank youfor your reply. I seen this nitrogen in eBay and I wanna make sure it's the right one the right size and the right nitrogen.
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Nitrogen Gas, Full, 40 Cu. Ft. CGA580 Connection Nitrogen Tank/Gas, 100% PURE! | eBay
Used as a purging gas to prevent internal flacking during welding/brazing or to pressurize and leak test a sealed system. Nitrogen Gas, 100% PURE! 40 cubic feet of Nitrogen Gas. (1) Steel Heavy Duty 40 cu Tank.www.ebay.com
You don't have to be tied up--First of all, you just pass out in less than a minute, and any kind of convulsions you may have afterwards won't dislodge anything, just make sure your tubing is around 5 feet long or thereaboutsThank you friend for giving a time reply for me.
I been trying to find for guidance and so far you been ver helpful I appreciate it.
I'm from California and this eBay nitrogen gas is a blessing to me to find it cause it's not easy for me to find one. Can testing be done with this detector https://www.ebay.com/itm/375618478154
Everything I'm buying most from eBay this is the flow meter I'm trying to purchase
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Argon CO2 TIG MIG Flow Meter Welding Regulator Welder Gauge CGA580 Heavy Duty | eBay
CGA-580 fitting, so it fits all argon, helium, nitrogen, and argon/CO2 mixed gas tanks. This does not fit CO2 cylinders. Heavy Duty The output flow is 10 to 60 cfh (cubic feet per hour). The warranty applies to defective products.www.ebay.com
If you have time to check them let me know.
Also I been reading that laying down is not recommended? I actually want to be laying down in bed to CTB? But most here is saying to nitrogen CTB needs to be in a chair tied up.
Why is that? Kind to wanna hear your thoughts!
Lastly the EEBD hood is something I wanna use just like Vizzy did. Is this EEBD hood good
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DRAGER CF-10/15 EMERGENCY ESCAPE BREATHING DIVICE (EEBD) HOOD FOR DRAGER MAKE | eBay
In All United Nation. CUSTOM POLICY. Marine Engineering.www.ebay.com
Sorry for this bunch of questions I'm just getting a bit excited. I just want a validation on all my plans of purchase before finalizing it I don't want to make mistakes.
Thanks friend.